AC Schnitzer does have a pretty good reputation at tuning MINIs. So I don't know why I didn't think I was going to be as excited about AC Schnitzer's tuned MINI Cooper Clubman S as I was.
Some specs:
Found this cool video and thread on NAM about the iPhone "snap-in" for the MINI OEM armrest.
[Ed. note: Man, this news breaks my heart, and I haven't even been into cars long enough to truly understand!]
[autoweek.com] Boyd Coddington, the hot-rod innovator whose creations won the coveted Grand National Roadster Show's America's Most Beautiful Roadster (AMBR) trophy a record seven times, died Wednesday morning after a lengthy hospital stay. He was 63.
Photo courtesy viewimages.com"It is my firm belief that Boyd is the founding father of this street-rod movement," said Gary Meadors of the Goodguys. "From the Boyd cars to the Boyd billet aluminum wheels . . . that whole smooth look that he brought to street rodding is what set him apart. He took our hobby to a whole other level with all the exposure he got in media outside our world. He was a forerunner, and he will be missed."
Get the full story at Autoweek.com
*I couldn't settle on a title for this post, so you get all three!
Exactly one year ago today, I took delivery of my 2006 MINI Cooper S, a.k.a. "Mr. Bigglesworth". It was about this hot too, a blazing 100-degree , SoCal summer day.
I remember being frustrated that his "maiden voyage" was on the HMS Gridlock. A brand new MINI, and I'm going 20 mph in clutch killer traffic for the next two hours trying to get home.
I remember stalling it three times in three different intersections. Pesky traffic signals! (I don't think I've mastered it's tiny-but-mighty transmission yet!) I got home and had to take a nap because I was tired from baking in the heat. I couldn't sleep w/ a brand new MINI in my parking spot.
Later that evening I was able to get some "First Day" photos, even though it was at night. Less than a month later the mod-bug creeped in and bit me in the ass. Since then, I've attempted to chronicle its on-going transformation. (Note to self: Get photo morphing program)
now:
Way back at AMVIV, (wow- that seems soo long ago!) I acquired the ever popular M7 Strut Tower Brace. I didn't get it installed at the time because our good friends from Detroit Tuned were astute enough to point out a cracked strut mount thingy! A quick replacement (and a few sledge-wacks later) and... voila!
I know when I've been one-upped. Sometimes I don't care- especially when *I* benefit from it too! Take for example, when ImagoX (NAM) one-upped my Intake Screen with his more aesthetic Honeycomb version (gotta love it any time you can deface Dodge RAM parts)!
As the title states, this is a brand spankin' new H-Sport "Sport" (27mm) Front Sway Bar for '02 and up MINI Cooper. Hardly even breathed on, this was taken out of box only to take these photos.
Two-position adjustable, w/ Bushings, Zerk Fittings, 1/2 tube of 'loob'
Retail price: $176.00
Shipped: $100 + plus shipping (O.B.O.)
Well, I can't really show photos of my latest accoutrement, since it's under the car, in between the frame and subframe, in the rear, connected to end-links and control arms. And I was actually involved in the (free) install (thats right- i actually got my hands dirty!) So I wasn't able to take 100 photos of the process. :)
The H-SPort Sport (19mm) Rear Sway Bar
"Does it make a diffference?" you say? I left the driveway, turned left, and at 20mph I could already notice a difference in handling. I wouldn't necessarily say a "stiffer" ride, since it's not a more rough ride. I can say that I don't know why they call it a "sway-bar", when it's actually and anti-sway bar!
(from the website):
"Recommended for street and track use, the Sport Rear may be used in combination with the stock front bar. All three settings on the Sport Rear are very useful if you attend track days, yet the bar itself is perfectly suitable for daily street use without any harsh ride effects of a larger bar."
Good times!
H-Sport.com
Update: I just noticed that there is a great review of this exact item on MotoringFile.com! (silly me for not checking first!)
A couple days ago I took a look at my car and all of a sudden, the "fried-egg" front turn signals now bug the heck out of me!
This morning I decided today was the day I was going to do something about it. I checked NAM for insight. Lots of info, but not quite enough. I found a link to the perfect bulbs but didn't want to have to order anything. I didn't know if the "mod" was simple. The corresponding NAM thread provided some decent instructions- enough to motivate to go ahead do it. I went the to AutoZone website to see they had something in stock- but, no photo? (C'mon retailers- we want photos!)
I don't really like my local AutoZone so I went to Kragen instead. For once, Kragen didn't have what I was looking for, and AutoZone did (usually it's the other way around). So instead of ordering the $25 silver covered bulbs from bimmian.com, I got some "close-enoughs" for... $12! No shipping or waiting!
Popping them in was pretty simple. When the lights are on you can't tell the difference. When they're off- well, not exactly "clear", but much better than distracting orange "accents" . If I had known this was so simple I'd have done it months ago!
I wished there were better instructions on NAM so I wrote up my own:
The $12 bulbs I got from AutoZone: Sylvania "Silverstar" Part No. 1156A ST (edit: The actual part number is 7507AST, but those weren't in stock so I improvised)
Here's what it looks like in the box (there's only one bulb in this photo because I fitted the first one in the AutoZone parking lot).
Here's the back of the box.
Pop the hood bonnet and find the housing holder. This shot is the left signal, while leaning over the bumper looking into the hole. To remove- 1) turn it, 2) pull it! So simple for skinny-handed folks lke myself!
Here's the bulb in it's holder. Remove the OEM bulb. Also simple!
Replace it with the new bulb. Note: the pins on the side of the OEM are offset at 150-degrees. The pegs on the Sylvania are at 180. In other words, they don't match up precisely to the bulb holder- a little "dedication" and it fits right in. This shouldn't be an issue if you can secure the proper part.
Replace the bulb housing the same way you took it out- turn it til it locks into place.
Here's a before and after with the lights off:
Here's a before and after with the lights on:
*Not exactly "clear", there is almost no noticeable difference with the lights on. $12 and 10 minutes later, I'm a happy camper!
northamericanmotoring.com
bimmian.com
autozone.com
Sylvania "Silverstar" Part No. 1156A ST, 7507AST
